Mohammad Kamand is preparing a young man for marriage at Tebyan, a government-approved website where arranged unions are strongly favoured over love matches. Profile pictures are forbidden and parents must accompany would-be couples on their first dates.
As a result, the regime is worried about a steady fall in Iran’s fertility rate, which has now settled at Western levels.
It had taken four days of hitchhiking to get to Tehran and I was still getting used to a country where I had yet to see another backpacker.
I had accepted that backpacking Iran was going to be a very different experience to traveling in any other country I had visited before.
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Still, Azadi had to balance independence with caution.